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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a cosmetic, dermatological or nutraceutical composition comprising in a suitable excipient an effective amount of a plant extract as an active ingredient, said plant extract comprising biologically active sucrose esters on the skin and mucous membranes. The invention also relates to the process for preparing the plant extract and said plant extract that can be obtained by the process. The invention also relates to the use of an effective amount of a plant extract, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, in a cosmetic, dermatological or nutraceutical composition intended to improve the hydration, the barrier function of the epidermis, to prevent and / or fight against aging of the skin and promote healing.
    公开号:FR3016289A1
    申请号:FR1400051
    申请日:2014-01-10
    公开日:2015-07-17
    发明作者:Remi Laville；Esmeralda Cicchetti；Sebastien Garnier；Leslie Duroure；Gerard Manzone；Jeremie Borsotto
    申请人:COSMO INTERNAT INGREDIENTS；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] PLANT EXTRACT COMPRISING SUCROSE-ESTERS AS AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ITS USE IN A COSMETIC, DERMATOLOGICAL OR NUTRACEUTICAL COMPOSITION.
    [0002] The present invention is in the field of cosmetics, dermatology and nutraceuticals. The invention relates to a plant extract comprising sucrase-esters as active principle and its use in a cosmetic, dermatological or nutraceutical composition.
    [0003] The invention relates to the use of a plant extract comprising sucrose-esters in a cosmetic, dermatological and nutraceutical composition intended to improve the hydration, the barrier function of the epidermis, to promote healing and to fight preventively and / or curative against skin aging. Preferably, the sucrose-esters come from any part of plants and preferably from plants of the Solanaceae family and preferably from the genus Physalis. Sucrose esters as active principle can be used alone or in combination with other active ingredients. The invention also relates to the use of these new active ingredients for the production of a dermatological composition, topically, intended to treat pathologies involving pathological dryness of the skin, mucous membranes or integuments. These pathologies are eg xerosis or eczema, dry mouth symptoms or dryness of the eye. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for preventing or combating the dryness of the skin and mucous membranes and the manifestations of cutaneous aging according to which a cosmetic composition is applied topically to the skin, the mucous membranes and the integuments. the areas to be treated. Finally, the invention relates to a nutri-cosmetic process for preventing or combating the dryness of the skin and mucous membranes and the manifestations of skin aging according to which a nutraceutical composition is ingested. The skin is a vital organ composed of several layers (dermis, proliferative layers and stratum corneum) which covers the entire surface of the body and essentially provides a barrier function vis-à-vis the external environment. This barrier function is based in particular on the quality of the epidermis which depends in particular on the state of the stratum corneum and the balance between proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are cells constituting 90% of the superficial layer of the skin (epidermis) and integuments (nails, hair, hair). They synthesize keratin, a fibrous and insoluble protein in water, which gives the skin its impermeability and external protection properties. The epidermis is divided into four layers based on the morphology of the keratinocytes, which pass gradually from the basal layer to the upper layers by cell differentiation to the stratum corneum or they form a layer of dead cells called dander, by apoptosis. This layer is a protective barrier and reduces the loss of water in the body. Keratinocytes are in perpetual renewal. They take about 1 month to go from the basal layer to the stratum corneum but this process can be accelerated in case of hyperproliferation of keratinocytes (psoriasis). The modulation of keratinocyte differentiation is a biological process that can intervene in the treatment of the manifestations of skin aging, both in the barrier function of the skin and in the formation of wrinkles. As active agents that inhibit the differentiation of keratinocytes, mention may be made of retinoids (retinol, retinoic acid, among others) which are recognized as active cosmetic and dermatological ingredients acting against numerous skin problems such as psoriasis, acne and wrinkles. retinoids induce inflammation of the skin prompting research laboratories to investigate novel retinoid-like agents that inhibit the differentiation of noninflammatory keratinocytes.21 Fibroblasts are cells found in connective tissue, sometimes called support cells It is in particular the resident cells of the dermis that provide coherence and flexibility, they secrete proteoglycans and glycoproteins, and in particular secrete collagen, elastin and fibrillins, including fibrillin 1. Fibrillin 1 is a glycoprotein that belongs to a protein family s including three members, whose regulation remains poorly known today. It is secreted by both fibroblasts and keratinocytes. It constitutes the major element of the microfibrils in the elastic and non-elastic extracellular matrices. Fibrillin 1 thus participates in the formation of fibers and their functional and structural properties play a key role in the elasticity of the connective tissue, especially at the level of the dermoepidermal junction. Indeed, it allows an anchoring of the epidermal cells to the elastic fibers of the dermis. At the level of the dermis, we observe with age a decrease in fibroblast activity with a decrease in their proliferation, biosynthesis and exchanges with the extracellular matrix, as well as an alteration of the qualitative support fibers. than quantitative. At the level of the dermo-epidermal junction, a flattening appears which causes a decrease in the cohesion between these two zones (dermis and epidermis), with rarefaction of the elements of the dermis and as well as anchoring fibers. , which results in a decrease in metabolic exchanges and the formation of wrinkles. Stretch marks result from a too rapid and too intense distention of the skin which results in the involvement of fibroblastic cells associated with a predominant alteration of collagen tissue and structural glycoproteins. Stretch mark formation appears to be a change in fibroblast metabolism resulting in poor scarring, as well as contact rupture between the cells and the matrix as cited in WO 200100700620. Fibrillin 1 is cited, sometimes with elastin, as a protein involved in the firmness and elasticity processes9'10, acting in the anti-aging mechanism 12 '13, 14, 15, and is especially used as a biomarker of the acceleration of the aging by the ultraviolet rays16'17'18, and / or for the treatment of certain cicatricial processes as for the stretch marks. The activation of the synthesis of fibrillin 1 would thus make it possible to treat the aged skin intrinsically, said genetically programmed or chronological, or extrinsically, particularly due to oxidative stress such as UV, tobacco or pollution and to treat the scars of the skin. Thus, fibroblasts and keratinocytes play a primordial role in the biological process of the skin, in particular by the secretion of fibrillin 1, to regulate firmness, elasticity, cell cohesion and in the process of healing and aging of the skin. skin.
    [0004] During skin aging, the skin becomes dry. Thus, it is very often found in the elderly, and in particular over 50 years, the manifestation of xerosis or dryness of the mucous membranes, related to a lower secretion of sebum, hormonal changes or slowdowns water flow through the epidermis. The skin is then the seat of itching and tugging, two characteristic symptoms of dry skin.
    [0005] Acquired pathologies resulting in dry skin include xerosis induced by photochemotherapy and eczema. Among the pathologies acquired causing dryness of the mouth, or xerostomia, mention may be made of Sjogren's syndrome or radiotherapy of the neck. Finally, among the pathologies involving dryness of the mucous membranes, mention may be made of ocular or vaginal dryness.
    [0006] To alleviate these problems of drought and aging of the skin, it is commonly used topically products intended to restore the skin barrier. Mention may be made of humectants, film-forming agents, retinoid-type molecules and agents capable of reconstructing the cutaneous barrier, such as squalene, for example.
    [0007] The present invention consists mainly in the discovery that certain sucrose esters from plants have interesting biochemical and biological activities to improve the hydration, the barrier function of the epidermis and to prevent and / or fight against the signs of skin aging. More specifically, the sucrose-esters of vegetable origin extracted according to the invention have biological activities of interest for skin care and hair especially for their properties on the hair and scalp such as hydrating, fortifying, styling, smoothing, nutritive, regulating secretion of sebum, soothing, limiting hair loss, anti-dandruff ... and especially for their effects on the skin of the face and body such as softening, protecting, toning, moisturizing, regenerating, seboregulator, relaxing, anti-aging, draining, restructuring .... Sucroesters are acyl esters of one or more acyl groups with a number of carbons more or less important (Cl to C22 for example) and a sugar. Generally, the sugar is sucrose and this is called sucrose-esters. The sucroesters possess an amphiphilic nature which can be modulated according to the degree of esterification of the sugar and the nature of the acyl groups. Sucroesters are known to provide an alternative solution to industries in the surfactant sector because they have certain advantages such as their safety, lack of taste and odor and their non-ionic character. The applications of sucroesters as surfactants are various such as in the field of food processing, detergency, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The sucroesters encountered on the market are mainly of synthetic origin and biosynthetic pathways are increasingly developed to claim an environmentally responsible process and a 100% natural product. The natural sucroesters exist but they are unknown to the industrial sector. Indeed, the family Solanaceae, whose best known representatives are Nicotiana tabacum (tobacco) and Solanum lycopersicum (tomato), are known to synthesize and store sucroesters in their trichomes, defense against potential predators 3, a In the search for natural sucroesters, research laboratories questioned the use of such molecules as therapeutic assets. Sucroesters possess biological activities such as anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiparasitic, and may modulate drug resistance. In comparison with synthetic sucrose esters, the acyl groups of natural sucroesters may also be of aromatic nature ( benzoate, ...) .7 These aromatic sucroesters are the subject of much research in therapeutic chemistry as anti-tumor agents. EP0280413 describes the use of sucrose-esters to increase the penetration of biological actives through the skin. . These sucrose-esters, obtained by synthesis, are sucrose monolaurate or alternatively the mixture of sucrose of coconut fatty acids whose major fatty acid is lauric acid (C12). W61271205 discloses that certain synthetic long chain (greater than 22 carbons) synthetic glucose esters, in combination with glycosylceramide or ceramide, are useful for increasing the wettability, flexibility and elasticity of the skin. In addition to their surfactant and therapeutic properties including anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and antiparasitic, sucrose-esters have never been described as having a cosmetic, dermatological or nutraceutical activity on the skin, mucous membranes or integuments. In particular, it has been demonstrated by the inventors that certain sucrose esters derived from plant extracts have a biological activity on the activation of fibrillin 1 and on the inhibition of keratinocyte differentiation. Thus, the inventors of the present invention have demonstrated a new active ingredient of plant origin capable of activating the synthesis of fibrillin 1 by fibroblasts and keratinocytes and / or of inhibiting the differentiation of keratinocytes and thus improving appearance of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments, to prevent and / or fight against the manifestations of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging, to help the cicatrization process especially in the case of stretch marks, to prevent and / or fight against dry skin, mucous membranes and / or skin appendages. A first object according to the invention consists of a cosmetic, dermatological or nutraceutical composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium or a suitable excipient, an effective amount of a plant extract as active ingredient comprising biologically active sucrose-esters on skin, mucous membranes and integuments. In the present invention, the term "effective amount of active ingredient" is understood to mean the necessary quantity of active molecules to obtain the desired result, namely, to make it possible to obtain a biological activity on the skin, superficial body growths and / or mucous membranes. . It will be understood in the present invention "effective amount of plant extract" knowing that the plant extract according to the invention comprises sucrose-esters as active ingredient. "Topical application", the act of applying or spreading the active principle according to the invention, or a composition containing it, on the surface of the skin, a mucous membrane or superficial body growths. "Cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable", that the active ingredient according to the invention, or a composition containing it, is suitable for coming into contact with the skin or a mucosa without causing toxicity or intolerance reactions. "Physiologically acceptable" compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with the mucous membranes, superficial body growths (nails, hair, hair), scalp and mammalian skin and more particularly human, the compositions that can be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response. "Physiologically acceptable medium" or "suitable excipient" without being limiting, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, a powder. This physiologically acceptable medium forms what is conventionally called the excipient of the composition. "Biologically active", "which has an activity in vivo or in vitro characteristic of the activity of the active principle according to the invention". / "Cutaneous manifestations of aging", all changes in the external appearance of the skin and skin appendages due to aging, such as, for example, fine lines and wrinkles, wilted skin, soft skin, thinned skin, lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, dull and lackluster skin or skin pigmentation spots, discoloration of the hair or spots on the nails, but also any internal changes in the skin that does not systematically result by a modified external appearance such as, for example, any internal degradation of the skin resulting from exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. "Plant extract" means a molecule or mixture of molecules comprising sucrose-esters obtained by extraction of a vegetable matrix.
    [0008] According to the invention, the plant extract as active ingredient comprises biologically active sucrose esters on the skin, mucous membranes and integuments. These sucrose esters are acyl esters of one or more acyl groups with a number of Cl to C22 carbons and sucrose.
    [0009] In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, the cosmetic, dermatological and nutraceutical compositions comprise an effective amount of plant extract comprising from 0.0001 to 100% of sucrose-esters having a number of carbons of the acyl groups of Cl to C22. .
    [0010] The acyl groups of the sucrose esters present in the extract may be branched or unbranched, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated and unsaturated or saturated. They have the following general structure: n = 0 to 19 melp = 0 to 18 Ry = H or CH 3 or OH y = 9 to 10 Preferably, the sucrose-esters have a carbon number of the acyl groups of Cl to C10, as follows : Degree of esterification = 3 or 4 OH 0 OR R 50 'ORe Rx = R10 R20' Y 'OR4 OR3 H yOU OR n = 0 or 1 OR8 OR7 In a more preferred embodiment according to the invention, the cosmetic compositions Dermatological and nutraceutical agents comprise an effective amount of plant extract comprising from 0.0001 to 100% sucrose esters having a carbon number of C1 to C10 acyl groups. In a still more preferred embodiment, the composition comprises an effective amount of plant extract comprising from 0.01 to 100% by weight and more preferably from 20 to 100% by mass of sucrose-esters having a number of carbon of the acyl groups. from C1 to C10.
    [0011] In a very preferred embodiment according to the invention, the sucrose-esters are chosen from: 3-O- (2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) -PD-fructofuranosyl (12) -3,4-bis (2) 2-decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, 3-O- (3-methyl-1-oxobutyl) -D-fructofuranosyl (1-) 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) - 2- decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, 3-O- (3-methyl-1-oxobutyl) - (3-D-fructofuranosyl (1 -) 2) -3- (2-methylpropanoate) -2-decanoate-a Glucopyranoside, 3-O- (2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) -13-D-fructofuranosyl (1-32) -3,6-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, 3-0- (2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) - (3-D-fructofuranosyl (12) -3- (3-methylbutanoate) -2-decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside. methyl-1-oxopropyl) -PD-fructofuranosyl (1 - 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-nonanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, 3-0- (2-methyl-1-yl) oxopropyl) -PD-fructofuranosyl (1-> 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-octanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, preferably the sucrose-esters are chosen among: - 3-0- (2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) -13-D-fructofuranosyl (1-92) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, - 3-O- (3-methyl-1-oxobutyl) - (3-D-fructofuranosyl (1-) 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside.
    [0012] In another preferred embodiment of the first object according to the invention, the plant extract is obtained from any part of plants. The parts are in particular the stem, the roots, the leaves, the fruit, the petals, the calyx, the seeds. The plants are in particular the plants of the family Solanaceae, preferentially subfamilies Petuniodeae, Nicotianoideae or Solanoideae.
    [0013] In a very preferred embodiment, among the subfamily Solanoideae, the plants are part of the genus Physalis. Among the genus Physalis, the preferred species are peruviana, alkekengi, angulata, minima, ixocarpa, pruinosa, solanaceus, sordida, nicantroides and viscosa. In a very preferred embodiment, the plant extract is derived from the calyx of Physalis peruviana.
    [0014] The composition according to the invention can be formulated in the form of various preparations suitable for topical administration, oral, rectal, vaginal, nasal, atrial or bronchial administration, parenteral administration. According to a first variant, the various preparations are suitable for topical administration and include creams, emulsions, milks, ointments, lotions, oils, aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or glycolic solutions, powders, patches , sprays or any other product for external application. According to a second variant, the different preparations are suitable for oral administration; the plant extract comprising sucrose-esters that can enter either a food composition or a dietary supplement. The dietary supplement may be in the form of capsules or soft capsules of gelatin or vegetable in the context of the present invention. Said dietary supplement may then contain from 0.01 to 100% by weight of the plant extract. In the context of a cosmetic or dermatological use, the composition will be advantageously formulated in the form of a preparation adapted for topical administration. In the context of a food use, for nutritional or cosmetic purposes (cosmetofood or nutri-cosmetic), the composition will advantageously be formulated in the form of a preparation suitable for oral administration. It may not include excipient and consist entirely of the plant extract including sucrose-esters. The compositions according to the invention are more particularly intended for topical administration. These compositions must therefore contain a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and superficial body growths, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or even powders, and adapted to an application on skin, lips and / or integuments. These compositions comprise the excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives, perfumes. They can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin. The composition according to the invention may in particular consist of a composition for hair care, and in particular a shampoo, a conditioner, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a restructuring lotion for the hair, a mask, etc. . The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in particular in treatments using an application that is followed or not by a rinse, or in the form of shampoo. The composition according to the invention may advantageously be used in dandruff care. It can also be in the form of dye or mascara to be applied with a brush or a comb, in particular on eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.
    [0015] The compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise any additive commonly used in the field of application envisaged as well as the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, dyes, sunscreens, self-tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, film-forming polymers, etc. The INCI Dictionary & Handbook ("International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients 13th Ed., 2010") published by "The Personal Care Products Council, Inc.", Washington, DC) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients usually used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions according to the present invention. Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredient classes include: healing agents, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-atrophy agents, moisturizing agents, softening agents, antibacterial agents, antiparasitic agents, antifungal agents, fungicidal agents, fungistatic agents, bactericidal agents, bacteriostatic agents, agents antimicrobials, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-pruriginous agents, anesthetic agents, antiviral agents keratolytic agents, anti-free radical agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, anti-dandruff agents, differentiation modulating agents, proliferation or skin pigmentation, penetration enhancers, desquamating agents, agents stimulating or inhibiting melanin synthesis, bleaching, depigmenting, or brightening agents, propigmenting agents, self-tanning agents, NO-synthase inhibiting agents, antioxidants, free radical scavengers and / or anti-pollution agents atmospheric agents, anti-glycation agents, firming agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or agents capable of preventing or inhibiting their degradation, agents stimulating collagen synthesis, agents stimulating the synthesis of elastin, the agents stimulating the synthesis of decorin, the agents stimulating the synthesis of laminin, stimulating agents for defensin synthesis, chaperone synthesis stimulating agents, aquaporin synthesis stimulating agents, hyaluronic acid stimulating agents, lipid and stratum corneum synthesis stimulating agents (ceramides , fatty acids, etc.), collagen degradation inhibiting agents, elastin degradation inhibiting agents, fibroblast proliferating agents, keratinocyte proliferating stimulating agents, adipocyte proliferating stimulating agents , melanocyte proliferation stimulating agents, keratinocyte differentiating stimulating agents, adipocyte differentiating stimulating agents, acetylcholinesterase inhibiting agents, glycosaminoglycan enhancing agents, DNA repairing agents, protecting agents DNA, anti-itch agents, agents for the treatment and / or care of sensitive skin, firming agents, anti-stretch mark agents, astringent agents, agents regulating sebum production, skin-relaxing agents, healing adjuvants, re-epithelializing agents, adjuvant re-epithelializing agents, cytokine growth factors, calming agents, anti-inflammatory agents, circulating agents and / or capillary microcirculation, angiogenesis stimulating agents, vascular permeability inhibiting agents, agents acting on cellular metabolism , agents for improving the dermal-epidermal junction, agents inducing hair growth and / or hair, agents inhibiting or slowing the growth of hair and / or hair, muscle relaxants, anti-pollution agents and anti-free radicals, lipolysis stimulating agents, slimming agents, anti-cellulite agents, agents acting on the skin. microcirculation, agents acting on cell metabolism, cleaning agents, hair styling agents, hair growth stimulants, sunscreens, total screens, makeup agents, detergents, pharmaceuticals , emulsifying agents, emollients, organic solvents, antiseptic agents, deodorant active agents, physiologically acceptable media, surfactants, abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as perfumes, pigments, dyes, dyes and natural dyes, essential oils, touching agents, cosmetic astringents, anti-acne agents, anti-clotting agents, anti-foam agents, antioxidants, leachates, biological additives, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors , enzymatic inducers, coenzymes, chelating agents, plant extracts and plant derivatives, oils essent those, marine extracts, agents from a biofermentation and / or biotechnology process, mineral salts, cell extracts, sunscreens (organic or inorganic photoprotective agents which are active against ultraviolet A and / or B) ceramides, peptides, buffers, volume agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, medicinal astringents, external analgesics, film-forming agents, such as polymers, to exacerbate the film-forming properties and substantivity of the composition, quaternary derivatives, substantivity enhancing agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters and regulators (e.g. triethanolamine), propellants, reducing agents, sequestering agents, bleaching and / or skin lightening agents, skin conditioning agents (ie, humectants, including miscellaneaous and occlusive agents), moisture retentive substances, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, moisturizers, epidermal hydrolytic enzymes, soothing and / or healing agents, skin-treating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents capable of reducing or treating bags under the eyes, exfoliating agents, thickeners, softeners, gelling polymers, vitamins and their derivatives, wetting agents, peeling agents, calming agents, curative agents for the skin, lignans, preservatives (iephenoxyethanol and parabens), anti-UV, cytotoxic agents, anti-neoplastic agents, viscosity modifiers, non-volatile solvents, pearling agents, antiperspirants, depilators vaccines, scented water, skin restructuring agent, excipients, fillers, minerals, anti-mycobacterial agents, anti-allergenic agents, antihistamines 1-11 or 112, anti-irritants, Immune system, immune system inhibitors, insect repellents, lubricants, pigmentants or dyes, hypopigmenting agents, photostabilizers, and mixtures thereof, as long as they are physically and chemically compatible with other ingredients of the composition and especially with the actives of the present invention. Moreover, the nature of these additional ingredients should not unacceptably alter the benefits of the assets of the invention. These additional ingredients may be synthetic or natural such as plant extracts or come from a biofermentation process. Additional examples may be found in the INCI Dictionary & Handbook. Such additional ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of: amino sugars, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine , N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, vitamin B3 and its derivatives, niacinamide, dehydro-sodium acetate, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phytosterols, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidines, dialkanoyl dihydroxyproline compounds , extracts and derivatives of soya, equol, isoflavones, flavonoids, phytantriol, farnesol, geraniol, bisabolol, peptides and their derivatives, di -, tri -, tetra penta -, and hexapeptides and their derivatives, lys - thr - thr - lys - ser, palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, carnosine, amino acid compounds Nacyl, retinoids, retinyl propionate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinal, retinoic acid, water-soluble vitamins, as corbates, vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamins and their salts and derivatives, provitamins and their salts and derivatives, ethyl panthenol, vitamin 13 and its derivatives, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6 vitamin B12, vitamin K and its derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol and its derivatives, ethyl panthenol, dexpanthenol, biotin, amino acids and their salts and derivatives, water-soluble amino acids, asparagine, alanine, indol, glutamic acid, water insoluble vitamins, vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin D and its compounds, mono-, di-, and triterpenoids, beta-ionol, cedrol, and their derivatives, amino acids insoluble in water, tyrosine, tryptamine, particulate materials, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, allantoin, tocopherol nicotinate, tocopherol, tocopherol esters, palmitoyl-gly-his-lys , phytosterol, hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid, ketoacids, pyruvic acid, phytic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, stilbenes, cinnamates, resveratrol, kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, natural peptides, soy peptides, acidic sugar salts , manganese gluconate, zinc gluconate, piroctone olamine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, triclocarban, zinc pyrithione, hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, pyridoxine, aloe vera, alcohols of terpene, allantoin, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycerol acid, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, pyrrolidone and its salts, dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, tartaraldehyde, clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus essence, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate, eicosene copolymer and vinyl pyrrolidone, iodopropyl butylcarbamate, polysaccharide arid, an essential fatty acid, a salicylate, a glycyrrhetinic acid, carotenoids, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, a complex lipid, oils generally of natural origin such as shea butter, apricot oil, evening primrose oil, prune oil, palm oil, coconut oil, kahai oil, hydroquinone, HEPES, procysteine, O-octanoyl-6- D-maltose, disodium salt of methyl glycine diacetic acid, steroids such as diosgenin and DHEA derivatives, DHEA dehydroepiandrosterone and / or a chemical or biological precursor or derivative, N-methylcarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol, bilberry extracts, phytohormones, yeast extracts Saccharomyces cerevisiae, algae extracts, extracts of soya, lupine, corn and / or pea, alverine and its salts, in particular citrate alverine, extracts of small holly and turkey brown and their combinations, a metalloproté inhibitor inases, extracts of Schinus molle. In all cases, those skilled in the art will ensure that these adjuvants and their proportions are chosen so as not to adversely affect the desirable properties of the composition according to the invention.
    [0016] The effective amount of active ingredient or plant extract corresponds to the amount necessary to obtain the desired result, namely, to improve the hydration and the barrier function of the epidermis, to prevent and / or to fight against the drought of the skin. skin and mucous membranes and against the manifestations of skin aging, and to help the healing process.
    [0017] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the amount or content of plant extract in the composition according to the invention is from 0.0001 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 25% by weight, and in particular from 0 to , 01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0018] A second object according to the invention is the process for preparing a plant extract or active principle comprising biologically active sucrose-esters on the skin, the mucous membranes and the integuments.
    [0019] To carry out the extraction, it is possible to use an entire plant, or a specific part of the plant (leaves, seeds, stems, roots, calices, petals, fruits, etc.). More particularly, according to the invention, the chalice of the plant is used. one of the many plants of the Solanaceae family, of the genus Physalis and preferentially the peruvian species. Any method of extraction and purification known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the plant extract according to the invention comprising sucrose esters as described above and having a biological activity on the skin, the mucous membranes and the integuments. The process for preparing a plant extract according to the invention is described more precisely below. The plant and parts of the plant can be harvested by so-called wild harvest, by conventional cultivation, by cultivation above ground or in hydroponic culture. In a non-exhaustive manner, the process for preparing the crude extract of the plant extract may be carried out by more or less conventional solid / liquid plant extraction methods, mainly using organic solvents, which are well known to the man of the art. Art. The extraction process can be single contact batch, semi-continuous or continuous. It can also be multi-stage, co-current or countercurrent. It can be assisted by ultrasound, microwaves, thermomagnetic induction, pulsed electric fields or under pressure. The vegetable matrix may be prepared beforehand by drying and then by grinding or cryomilling, flash flashing or controlled instantaneous relaxation. Also, the plant matrix can also be digested by enzymes in order to release the maximum of molecules of interest. The solvents that can be used to extract the sucrase-esters are: linear or branched, aromatic or cyclic aliphatic hydrocarbons such as hexane, cyclohexane, halogenated hydrocarbons, such as dichloroethylene, chloroform, etc .; alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or butanol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,2 and 1,3 propanediols, butylene glycol, glycerol, ... - ketones such as acetone, methyl isobutyl ketone, methyl ethyl ketone, ... aliphatic or cyclic ethers such as diethyl ether, methyl tert-butyl ether, ethyl tert-butyl ether, tetrahydrofuran (THF), methyl THF, glycol ethers such as 2-methoxy-1-methylethyl acetate, 2- (2-butoxyethoxy) ethanol and its acetate, esters, more or less long chain acids and of longer or shorter chain alcohols such as ethyl acetate, ethyl lactate, ethyl propionate, ethyl oleate, methyl stearate, oleyl oleate, ionic liquids such as 1- (4-sulfobutyl) -3-methylimidazolium hydrogen sulfate, 1-ethyl-3-methylimidazolium bis (trifluoromine) ethanesulfonyl) imide, supercritical fluids such as carbon dioxide with or without co-solvents; agro-solvents such as vegetable oils, terpenes such as limonene or pinene, a combination of these solvents. The extract thus obtained can be purified by various methods, in particular by liquid-liquid extraction, by centrifugation, by adsorption (for example by decolorization with active charcoal or bleaching earth), by sublimation, by crystallization, by preparative chromatography, by distillation especially by molecular distillation of the centrifugal or scraped film type or by membrane filtration. Depending on the putification technique used, a subsequent filtration and desolvation step may be carried out.
    [0020] In a preferred embodiment, the crude plant extract is obtained with one of the following solvents: cyclohexane, ethyl acetate and supercritical carbon dioxide with an addition of a cosolvent such as a alcohol, for example an aliphatic alcohol such as ethanol, or a vegetable oil, preferably refined or an ester such as caprylate / glycerol caprate. Thus, the process for preparing a plant extract according to the invention comprises the following steps: drying of the plant part, grinding, extraction with an appropriate organic solvent, then possibly desolvation, then optionally purification with one or more appropriate methods. In a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises the following steps: drying of the plant part, cryomilling, extraction with ethyl acetate, cyclohexane, ethanol or supercritical carbon dioxide without or with a co-solvent such as an alcohol or a vegetable oil or an ester, purification by crystallization or adsorption, then optionally filtration, and optionally desolvation.
    [0021] A third object according to the invention is the plant extract obtained or obtainable by the method described above and essentially comprising biologically active sucrose-esters on the skin, mucous membranes and superficial body growths. As stated above for the compositions according to the invention, the plant extract preferably comprises from 0.0001 to 100% of sucrose-esters having a number of carbons of the acyl groups of Cl to C22, more preferably of Cl to C10. . In an even more preferential embodiment, the plant extract comprises from 0.01 to 100% by weight and more preferably from 20 to 100% by weight of sucrose-esters having a number of carbons of C1 to C10 acyl groups. A fourth object according to the invention is the use of an effective amount of a plant extract as described above, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended to improve the hydration, the barrier function of the epidermis, to prevent and / or fight against aging of the skin and to promote healing. In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, the use of an effective amount of a plant extract is intended to treat pathologies involving a pathological dryness of the skin, mucous membranes and superficial body growths, such as xerosis or eczema, dry mouth symptoms or dryness of the eye. In particular, the active ingredient according to the invention may advantageously be used in a cosmetic composition intended to preventatively and / or curatively fight against the manifestations of skin aging and, more specifically, to combat and / or prevent photo-induced aging (photo-aging). The active ingredient according to the invention, or the composition containing it, will make it possible, in particular, to combat the loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin. A final object according to the invention is a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve the appearance of the skin and to prevent and / or fight against the dryness of the skin and the mucous membranes, to prevent and / or to fight against the signs cutaneous aging and / or photo-aging, by topical application to the skin and mucous membranes to be treated with a composition as described above. Other advantages and features of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes. EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a Plant Extract from the Chalice of Physalis Peruviana The calyxes of Physalis peruviana, previously separated from the fruits and dried, are ground in a knife mill having a 1 mm grid, which makes it possible to obtain a powder whose particle size is mainly around 500 gm. The powder (50 g) thus obtained is placed in a cellulose cartridge, this cartridge is placed in a Soxhlet type extractor. The solvent used to extract is 96% ethanol (50 ml), with about twenty cycles of extraction. The extract in a solvent medium is evaporated in a rotary evaporator to remove the solvent. There is thus obtained 11.0 g of Physalis peruviana calyx extract containing 57% sucrose esters. Example 2 Preparation of a plant extract from the calyx of Phvsalis peruviana The calyx of Physalis peruviana, previously separated from the fruit and dried, are ground in a knife mill having a grid of 1 cm. mm, which makes it possible to obtain a powder whose particle size is predominantly around 500 μm. The powder thus obtained (50 g) is placed in a cellulose cartridge, this cartridge is placed in a Soxhlet type extractor. The solvent used to extract is ethyl acetate, with twenty cycles of extraction. The extract thus obtained in a solvent medium can be purified by a column liquid liquid extraction with water, at a temperature of between 20 ° C. and 65 ° C., in countercurrent order to eliminate water-soluble molecules. The organic phase comprising ethyl acetate and the extract is then evaporated in a rotary evaporator to remove the solvent. The washed extract is exsanguinated with polyphenols, whitanolides and free sugars. There is thus obtained 6.2 g of Physalis peruviana calyx extract containing 89.0% sucrose-esters. Example 3 Preparation of a plant extract from the calyx of Phvsalis peruviana The calyxes of Physalis peruviana, previously separated from the fruits and dried, are ground in a knife mill having a 1 mm grid, which makes it possible to obtain a powder whose particle size is mainly around 500 gm. The powder thus obtained is placed in a supercritical fluid extractor. The solvent used to extract is carbon dioxide with the addition of a co-solvent such as an aliphatic alcohol such as ethanol. The extraction parameters are for a pressure of between 75 and 200 bar, a temperature between 35 and 50 ° C, a CO2 flow rate of between 2 and 20 kg / h, and 1 to 5% of ethanol relative to to CO2. The extract thus obtained in a solvent medium is decolorized with active charcoal or bleaching earth, crystallized under cold conditions, then filtered and evaporated. There is thus obtained 85.5 g of Physalis peruviana calyx extract containing 87.6% of sucrose-esters. If necessary, the extract thus obtained can be purified by molecular distillation of the centrifugal or scraped film type, in order to obtain a calyx extract of Physalis peruviana at 99.9% of chromatographic purity.
    [0022] EXAMPLE 4 Purification of sucrose-esters from a plant extract obtained from the calyx of Physalis peruviana A calyx extract of physalis (1 g) obtained according to Example 1 is solubilized in 6 ml of a solvent mixture CH3CN / H2O 1: 1. The solution is filtered on a cartridge by Solid Phase Extraction (SPE) (C18, 10 g) which is rinsed with 10 ml of the same 1: 1 CH 3 CN / H 2 O mixture. The eluate obtained is combined with the charge solvent to obtain fraction 1 (300 mg).
    [0023] The charged cartridge is then successively eluted according to the gradient of solvent CH3CN / H2O 7: 3 (20 mL) and 1: 0 (20 mL) to obtain fractions 2 (500 mg) and 3 (100 mg). Fractions 1, 2 and 3 are analyzed by HPLC-DAD-DEDL and are compared with the chromatogram of the initial extract. Fraction 1 consists of polyphenolic compounds, withanolides and physals and polar compounds such as sugars. Fraction 2 is composed of sucrose-esters. Fraction 3 is a lipid fraction. Fraction 2 (500 mg) is fractionated by preparative HPLC (C18, 50x150 mm, 51am) according to a H20 / CH3CN solvent gradient (from 3: 7 to 0: 1 in 35 min.) To obtain the fractions. : - Fraction Mb (elution between 4 and 14 min.), - Fraction I (elution between 14 and 18 min, 230 mg), - Fraction II (elution between 18 and 25 min, 200 mg) and 25 - Fraction Ma (between 25 and 35 min.). The fractions Fraction II% and Mb are combined to obtain fraction Fraction III (50 mg). Composition of Fractions Obtained: Fraction I: Compound 1,3-0- (2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) 13-D-fructofuranosyl (1-) 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2- decanoate-D-glucopyranoside. Fraction II: Compound 2,3-0- (3-methyl-1-oxobutyl) -fl-D-fictituranosyl (1-> 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside . Fraction III: sucrose-esters other than previously and comprising in particular - 3-O- (3-methyl-1-oxobutyl) -13-D-fructofuranosyl (1-> 2) -3- (2-methylpropanoate) -2- decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, 3-O- (2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) - (3-D-fructofuranosyl (1-) 2) -3,6-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-decanoate D-glucopyranoside. 3-0- (2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) -13-D-fructofuranosyl (1-> 2) -3- (3-methylbutanoate) -2-decanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside - 3-0- ( 2-methyl-1-oxopropyl) -13-D-fructofuranosyl (1 - 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-nonanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, 3-0- (2- methyl-1-oxopropyl) 43-D-fructofuranosyl (1 2) -3,4-bis (2-methylpropanoate) -2-octanoate-α-D-glucopyranoside, Example 5: Effects of Fractions I, II and III on the profile of Expression of cutaneous cells The effects of fractions I, II and II were investigated by transcriptomic analysis on normal human epidermal keratinocyte and human dermal fibroblast models. This overall transcript expression analysis was performed after 4 to 24 hours of incubation using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas ™ platform and the U219 human full transcriptome chip containing 36,000 transcripts and variants. 2.1 Biological models Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) - Cell type: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) 37 ° C, 5% CO2 - Culture conditions: Keratinocyte-SFM supplemented with Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) 0.25 nWm1 Pituitary Extract (EP) ) 25 μg / ml - Culture medium: Gentamycin 25 μg / ml - Test medium: Keratinocyte-SFM supplemented with Gentamycin 25 μg / ml 25 Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) - Cell type: Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) ), - Culture conditions: 37 ° C, 5% CO2 - Culture medium: DMEM supplemented with 2 mM L-glutamine - Test medium: Penicillin 50 - Streptomycin 50 gg / ml Fetal calf serum (FCS) 10% DMEM supplemented with L-glutamine 2 mM Penicillin 50 U / ml - Streptomycin 501.1g / m1 SVF 1% 2.2 Compounds tested Compound tested Aspect / Storage Stock solution Concentration tested Fraction I - Paste 50 mg / ml in DMSO 0.8 Lig / ml - Storage at + 4 ° C Fraction 11 - P 50 mg / ml in DMSO 0.8 μg / ml - Storage at + 4 ° C. Fraction HI - Paste 50 mg / ml in DMSO 0.8 μg / ml - Storage at + 4 ° C. 2.3 Culture and treatment The cells were inoculated and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then incubated in their test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with the test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 4 hours or 24 hours. All conditions were realized in n = 3. At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with PBS solution. The plates were immediately frozen dry at -80 ° C. 2.4 Principle of Use of the Affymetrix® U219 Chip - Differential Expression Analysis - Target Preparation The total RNAs of each sample were extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent '' according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of the RNAs were evaluated by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). RNA amplification and synthesis of biotinylated RNA analogues (ARNa) were performed using the GeneChip 3'IVT Express kit (Affymetrix4I). The single-stranded complementary DNAs (cDNAs) were synthesized by reverse transcription of the total RNAs in the presence of oligo (dT). By action of a DNA polymerase, a double-stranded cDNA (dsDNA) was then synthesized. Biotinylated RNAs were then synthesized from the cDNAs and in the presence of biotinylated ribonucleotide analogs. After a purification step on magnetic beads, to remove free salts, enzymes and nucleotides, the biotinylated RNAs were hydrolyzed into fragments of 35 to 200 nucleotides with a peak at 100-120 nucleotides (fragmented targets).
    [0024] Quality controls of the synthesized biotinylated RNAs were performed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization and labeling protocol This step was carried out using the kit "GeneAtlasTM hybridization, wash and stain kit for 3'IVT arrays" (Affymetrix®). Hybridization of the fragmented RNAa on the Affymetrixe U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlasTM fluidics station (Affymetrix®) for 20 hours at 45 ° C. Hybridization control probes (BioB, BioC and BioD) and control polyA RNAs (Lys, Phe and Dap) were added during the hybridization. The hybridization control probes, directly coupled with phycoerythrin, make it possible to ensure the effectiveness of the hybridization independently of the labeling step. The poly-A control RNAs are used to validate the quality of the marking.
    [0025] The labeling was then carried out in 3 steps (+ intermediate washing steps): - Fixation of the streptavidin-phycoerythrin complex on the hybridized RNAs on the chip, - Recognition of this complex by an anti-streptavidin antibody coupled to the biotin, - Addition streptavidin coupled with phycoerythrin allowing amplification of the signal. 2.5 Data Processing The raw data has been transferred and processed using Microsoft Excel software.
    [0026] Intergroup comparisons were performed using the unpaired bilateral Student T test. Statistical analyzes can be interpreted if n> 5; however, for n <5, the calculated data are provided for information purposes only.
    [0027] Formulas used: Standard error of the ESM = standard deviation (Sd) / mean Vn: The standard error of the mean (esm) represents the deviation of the sample mean from the average of the true population. The esm is calculated by dividing the Sd by the square root of the sample size. Percentage of viability: viability (%) = (composite OD / control OD) X 100 2.6 Results A "fold change" analysis in the Excel software was performed then a functional analysis was performed using the IPA software (Interactive Pathway Analysis) from Ingenuity. This analysis makes it possible to group the significantly modulated genes in biological functions (processes) Analysis of fibroblasts (NHDF) The analysis of the transcriptomic profiles of fibroblasts treated with fractions (I, II and III) showed a modulation of gene expression , especially with the fraction II In the fraction II, the modulation of the expression of the gene encoding fibrillin 1 (FBN1) is very interesting. Indeed, the expression of this gene is significantly increased at times 4 hours (X 3.27) and 24 hours (X 8.24). Fibrillin 1 (major constituent of the extracellular matrix) is secreted by fibroblasts and is an important component of microfibrils. It is particularly involved in the assembly of elastin fibers, and plays an important role in the elasticity of the skin. Keratinocyte analysis (NHEK) The analysis of the transcriptomic profiles of keratinocytes treated with the 3 fractions (I, II and III) showed modulation of gene expression, especially with fraction III. The keratinocyte treatments by the 3 fractions (I, II and III) induced inhibitions of expression of genes coding for keratinocyte differentiation proteins: KRT1, IVL, DSG1, DSC1, SPRR2A, SPRR2E, SPRR1A, SPRR2D, CALML5, SBSN and KRTDAP. This effect makes it possible to say that fractions I, II and III have an anti-differentiating effect on keratinocytes. EXAMPLE 6 Compositions for Oral Administration Physalis peruviana calyx extract, containing the sucrose esters, is incorporated into oral compositions in compositions allowing the administration of 50 mg to 200 mg of extract per day. . 1) Anti-aging composition in the form of soft capsules - Physalis peruviana calyx extract according to Example 1 or 2 or 3 - Argan oil 20 - Unsaponifiable wheat germ oil - Group B vitamin (B1, B2 , B3, B5, B6, B9, B12) - Tocotrienols - Vitamin E - Beeswax 25 - Soy lecithin - Food gelatin - Glycerin 30 mg 60 mg 300 mg QSP 100% of RDA QSP 50% of AIR QSP 1 capsule This composition is administered from 4 to 6 capsules daily. 2) Firming composition of the skin in tablet form - Physalis peruviana calyx extract according to Example 1 or 2 or 3 25 mg - Cereal extracts (wheat, buckwheat, rice, quinoa) 200 mg 35 rich in sulfur amino acids - Zinc as Chelate - Vitamin C - Glycosaminoglycans from Fish Cartilage Glucidex IT 19 (Compression Agent) QSP 100% RDA QSP 50% RDA 200 mg QSP 1 800 mg tablet This composition is administered from 5 to 8 tablets per day. 3) Example of a chocolate flavored cereal bar - Physalis peruviana chalice extract according to Example 1 or 2 or 3 - Lycopene - Astaxanthin - Fucoxanthin - Lutein in microencapsulated form - Microencapsulated Tocotrienols - dark chocolate, oligo-fructose, sugar, fructose syrup, lean cocoa powder, crunchy cereals, skimmed milk powder, almonds, glycerol, sorbitol, vegetable oils, glucose syrup, flavoring, sweetened condensed milk, soy lecithin, mono and diglycerides of fatty acids, caramelized syrup , maltodextrin, salt, potassium sorbate, alpha tocopherol This composition is administered once a day. 200 mg 6 mg 4 mg 4 mg 4 mg QSP 100% AJR in Vitamin E QSP one bar of 50 g 4) Example of vanilla flavored milk drink - Physalis peruviana chalice extract according to Example 1 or 2 or 3 - Green tea extract high in polyphenols - Vitamin B (B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, B12) - Zinc, Magnesium, Selenium 200 mg 100 mg QSP 100% RDA QSP 100% RDA Skim milk powder, flavor, fructose, egg white, vanilla beans, sugar, caramel, beta carotene, xanthan gum, asparthame, acesulfame potassium, soy lecithin, maltodextrin. QSP one sachet of 30 g This composition is administered once a day. Example 7: Cosmetic composition - Day cream for the face INCI names% by weight Phase A Water Qsp 100 Carbomer 0.25 Phase B Butylene glycol 2.00 Phenoxyethanol qs Phase C Steareth-2 0.40 Steareth-l0 1.20 Cetearyl alcohol & Dicetyl phosphate & Ceteth 10 phosphate 4.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 Azone 2.50 Cyclohexasiloxane & Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00 Ethylhexyl succinate 7.00 Phase D Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase E Water 3.00 Sodium Hydroxide 0.40 Phase Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 2.00 Operating Procedure: Weigh phase A and allow to swell without stirring for 30 minutes. Put phase A to heat at 75 ° C in a water bath. Weigh and mix phase B. Weigh phase C and heat to 75 ° C in a water bath. Add phase B to phase A. Mix well. With stirring for phase C in phase A + B. Well homogenize. Add phase D, extemporaneously.
    [0028] Add phase E, mix well. Add phase F, mix well. EXAMPLE 8 Cosmetic Composition - Gel Form for Face INCI Names% by mass Phase A Water Qsp 100 Cetyl hydroxyethykellulose 0.30 Phase B Carbomer 0.40 Water 20.00 Phase C Glycerin 3.00 Ethyl & Methyl & Propyl parabens 0, 30 Phase D Ore oil 4.00 Polysorbate 20 1.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2.00 C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate cross polymer 0.30 Phase E Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase F Water 5.00 Sodium Hydroxide 0.50 Phase Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 1.00 Procedure: Disperse Phase A with stirring. Sprinkle the Ultrez 10 in the water, allow to swell for 30 minutes. Heat Phase C until completely dissolved. Mix Phase A with Phase B. Add C in Phase (B + A). Add Phase D, with stirring, to the Phase (A + B + C). Add Phase E. Neutralize with Phase F. Add Phase G and mix. Example 9 Cosmetic Composition - Serum Form INCI Names% by mass Phase A Water Qsp 100 Carbomer 0.25 Phase B Butylene Glycol 3.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.20 Phase C Polysorbate 20 0.50 Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 2.00 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 0.50 Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl polymer Acrylates cross 0.20 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.00 Phase D Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase E Sodium Hydroxide 0.45 Water 4.00 Phase F Active ingredient according to the invention (Example 1 or 2 or 3) 1.00 Phase G Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Phase A: Sprinkle carbomer in water, allow to swell for 15 minutes. Mix Phase B. Pour Phase B into Phase A, homogenize. Then Weigh Phase C, mix and add in Phase A + B, with stirring. Allow to swell 1 hour. Extemporaneously add Phase D in the previous phase with agitation. Neutralize with Phase E. Stir. Then add Phase F. Allow to mix for at least 1 hour with stirring and then add Phase G. Mix well.
    [0029] EXAMPLE 10 Night Cream for Face INCI Names% by Weight Phase A Water Qsp 100 Carbomer 0.40 Phase B Glycerin 3.00 Ethyl & Methyl & Propyl Parabens 0.30 Phase C Cetearyl Alcohol & Polysorbate 20 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1 , 00 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 1.0 Dimethicone 2.50 Isotridecyl Isononanoate 5.00 Phase D Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase E Sodium Hydroxide 0.40 Water 4.00 Phase F Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 1.00 Phase G Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Weigh Phase A and allow to swell for 30 minutes. Heat Phase A in a 75 ° C water bath; Heat Phase B until complete solubilization. Add Phase B to 10 Phase A. Heat Phase C in a 75 ° C water bath. Add Phase C to Phase A + B under stirring. Add Phase D and mix well. Neutralize with Phase E at 55 ° C. Add Phase F then Phase G and mix well. Example 11: Cream for the body. 5 INCI Names% by mass Phase A Water Qsp 100 Carbomer 0.4 Phase B Glycerin 3.00 Ethyl & Methyl & Propyl parabens 0.30 Phase C Sorbitan stearate 2.00 Ore Oil 4.00 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Adipate 1, 00 Glyceryl stearate & PEG 100 stearate 3.00 Phase D Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase E Sodium Hydroxide 0.40 Water 4.00 Phase F Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 2.00 Phase G Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Weigh Phase A and let it swell for 30 minutes. Heat Phase A in a 75 ° C water bath. Heat Phase B until complete solubilization. Add Phase B to Phase A. Heat Phase C in a 75 ° C water bath. Add Phase C to Phase A + B with stirring. Add Phase D and mix well. Neutralize with Phase E at 55 ° C. Add Phase F then Phase G and mix well. EXAMPLE 12 Lotion INCI Names% by Mass Phase A Water Qsp 100 Phase B Butylene Glycol 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.20 Phase C Polysorbate 20 2.00 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 0.10 Phase D Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase E Active Ingredient According to the Invention (According to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 1.00 Phase F Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Weigh Phase A. Weigh Phase B and mix. Add Phase B to Phase A with stirring for 30 minutes. Weigh Phase C, mix until a homogeneous mixture.
    [0030] Add Phase C to Phase A + B with stirring. Add Phase to the previous mixture. Add Phase E to the above mixture with stirring. Well homogenize. Weigh Phase F, mix and add to the previous mixture. Mix insistently.
    [0031] EXAMPLE 13 Day Cream INCI Names% by Weight Phase A Water Qsp 100 Carbomer 0.2 Phase B Butylene Glycol 2.00 Phenoxyethanol 1.30 Phase C Glyceryl Stearate & PEG 100 Stearate 1.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 4.00 Phase D Acrylates / C10-30 Aikyl Acrylates Cross Polymer 0.20 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 1.00 Dimethicone 1.00 Phase E Sorbate 0.10 Phase F Sodium Hydroxide 0.40 Water 4.00 Phase G Active Ingredient according to invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 2.00 Phase H Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Phase A: Pour Ultrez 10 into the water and allow to swell for 30 minutes. Weigh Phase B and let melt at 60 ° C. Heat Phase A in a 75 ° C water bath. Weigh Phase C and heat to 75 ° C in a water bath. While stirring (Starvo v = 500 rpm), add Phase C to Phase A. Add arbitrarily Phase B and Phase D in Phase A + B and add Phase E. Thoroughly homogenize. Cool to 45 ° C and add Phase F. At 35 ° C add Phase G, mix well. Add Phase H, mix well. Example 14: Fluid for the body.
    [0032] INCI Names% by mass Phase A Water 5.00 Carbomer 0.30 Phase B Water Qsp 100 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.40 Phase C Butylene Glycol 3.00 Phenoxyethanol 1.30 Phase D C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 2.00 Caprylic / capric Triglyceride 3.00 Polysorbate 20 1.00 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 1.00 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Cross Polymer 0.20 Phase E Sorbate 0.10 Phase F Sodium Hydroxide 0.50 Water 5.00 Phase G Active Ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 2.00 Phase H Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Phase A: Pour Ultrez 10 into the water and allow to swell for 30 minutes. With propeller stirring (300 rpm), pour in Phase B and allow to swell for 1 hour. Add Phase A in Phase B with propeller stirring (300 rpm), mix well. Weigh and stir Phase C, weigh Phase D and mix. Add Phase C to Phase A + B. Add Phase D to Phase A + B + C. Well homogenize. Add Phase E then Phase F and G and finally Phase H. pH = 6.2. Example 15: Night Cream INCI Names% by mass Phase A Water 5.00 Carbomer 0.30 Phase B Water Qsp 100 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.40 Phase C Butylene Glycol 3.00 Phenoxyethanol 1.30 Phase D PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 1.00 Acrylates / C10-30 Aikyl Acrylates cross polyrner 0.20 Phase E Sorbate 0.10 Phase F Sodium Hydroxide 0.50 Water 5.00 Phase G Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 2 , 00 Phase H Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Phase A: Pour Ultrez 10 into the water and allow to swell for 30 minutes. With propeller stirring (300 rpm), pour in Phase B and allow to swell for 1 hour. Add Phase A in Phase B with propeller stirring (300 rpm), mix well. Weigh and stir Phase C, weigh Phase D and mix. Add Phase C to Phase A + B with knife stirring (300 rpm). Add Phase D to Phase A + B + C. Well homogenize. Add Phase E then Phase F and G and Enfm Phase H. Mix well. Example 16: Anti-stretch mark cream.
    [0033] INCI Names% by mass Phase A Water Qsp 100 Carbomer 0.40 Phase B Glycerin 5.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) Mixed Parabens 0.80 Phase C Ethylhexyl Palmitate 4.00 Cetearyl alocholCroda 0.50 Myristyl Lactate 0.30 Polysorbate 20 1, 00 Phase D Acrylates / C10-30 Aikyl Acrylates Cross Polymer 0.20 Cyclomethicone 2.00 Phase E Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase F Sodium Hydroxide 0.60 Water 6.00 Phase G Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 1.00 Phase H Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Phase A: Disperse Ultrez 10 in water and allow to swell for 20 minutes. Mix Phase B and heat to 60 ° C until completely diluted. Add Phase B to Phase A with agitation. Heat Phase A + B. Weigh Phase C and heat to 75 ° C. Add Phase C to Phase A + B with stirring. Homogenize carefully and add Phase D. Add Phase E. Neutralize with Phase F at 50 ° C. Add Phase G and H at 35 ° C and adjust the pH to 6.3 with NaOH. Example 17: Hair lotion. INCI Names% by mass Phase A Cetrimonium chloride 1.00 Citric acid 0.22 Trisodium citrate 1.20 Sorbate 0.10 Water Qsp 100 Phase B Methyl Paraben 0.20 PPG 5 Ceteth 20 2.00 Phase C Active ingredient according to invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 1.00 Phase D Polysorbate 20 1.00 Fragrance 0.10 Example 18: Moisturizing makeup. INCI Names% by weight Phase A Water Qsp 100 Potassium hydroxide 1,3 Polysorbate 80 0.1 Phase B Titanium dioxide 6.00 Talc 3.05 Yellow iron oxide 1.8 Red iron oxide 1.00 Black iron oxide 0.15 Phase C Propylene glycol 4.00 Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 1.00 Phase D Propylene glycol 2.00 Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose 0.12 Phase E Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate 12.00 Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4.00 Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteth-20 Phospahte, Dicetyl Phosphate 3.00 Steareth-10 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 0.62 Steareth-2 0.5 Phase F Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 3.00 Example 19: Lip balm. INCI Names% by mass Phase A Water Qsp 100 Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Magnesium Sulfate 0.70 Phase B Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 3.00 Methyl Paraben 1.00 Tribehenin 0.30 PPG-3 BEnzyl Ether Myristate 2.00 Argania spinoa Kernel Oil 19.00 Phase C Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 0.50 Phase D Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Heat Phase A at 85 ° C. Mix Phase B and heat to 85 ° C. Add gently Phase A to Phase B with stirring (Staro v = 3000 rpm then 1200 rpm). Add Phase C preheated to 80 ° C, homogenize. Add Phase D at 35 ° C. Pay. Example 20: Hair protection spray. INCI names% by weight Phase A Water Qsp 100 Ethanol 10.00 Polysorbate 20 0.40 Cetrinium chloride 1.00 Phase B Butylene glycol (and) Helianthus Annus Seed Extract 5.00 Preservative Qs Phase C Active ingredient according to the invention (according to Example 1 or 2 or 3) 3.00 Phase D Water 0.50 Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 Procedure: Weigh and mix Phase A with a knife stirrer v = 300 rpm. Add Phase 13, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH to 5.0 to 5.5 with Phase D.
    [0034] References 1. The sugar esters: synthesis routes and potential uses, Piccicuto et al. Biotechnol. Agron. Soc. About. 2001, 5, 209-219 2. Fields of application of sucroesters and sucroglycerides, Mireille Cecchin, DESS documentary engineering, bibliographic report, 2001. 3. Preparative isolation and structural characterization of sucrose ester isomers from Oriental Tobacco, Jia et al. Carbohydrate Research 2013, 372, 73-77 4. Characterization of 2,3,4,3'-tetra-O-acylated sucrose esters associated with the glandular trichomes of Lycopersicon typicum King et al. J Agric. Food Chem. 1993, 41, 469-473. 5. New Multidrug Resistance Modulators from Atractylodis lanceae Rhizoma Murakami et al. Bioorg. Med. Chem. Lett. 2000, 10, 2629-2632 6. Labdanes sucrose years Ester from Physalis sdrdida, Maldonado et al. J. Nat. Prod. 2006, 69, 1511-1513. Oligosaccharide esters from the roots of Polygala arillata, Kobayashi et al. J Nat. Prod. 2000, 63, 1066-1069 8. Synthesis and antitumor activity of laparoside D and its analogs, Panda et al. Eur. J. Med. Chem. 2012, 53, 1-12. 9. Direct inhibition of elastase and matrix metalloproteinases and stimulation of biosynthesis of fibrillar collagens, elastin, and fibrillins by xanthohumol (Journal of Cosmetic Science, Volume 61, Issue 2, Pagesl25-132, Journal 2010.) 10. From elastin to elastic fibers, part I. The in vitro effects of a natural dipeptide on the biological cascade. 11. A Novel anti-aging mechanism for retinol: induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fiber training International Journal of Cosmetic Science Volume 33 Issue 1 Pages 62-69 Journal 2011 12. Matrix proteins of the papillary dermis - primary targets of intrinsic dermal aging Global Ingredients & Formulations Guide 2009 Pages131-142 Conference 2009 13. Matrix proteins of the papillary dermis - primary targets of intrinsic dermal aging IFSCC Magazine Volume 11 Issue 3 Pages 225-229 Journal 2008 14. Fibrillins and Fibrillinopathies, Gwenaëlle Collod et al., Medicine and Science No. 10, vol. 12, p. 1077 -1086, October 1996 15. Beaded filaments: structure, functions and associated diseases, Eric Hanssen et al., Medicine and Science No. 3, vol. 17, p. 327 -335, March 2001 16. Stiff Skin Syndrome Cause Found, P. J. Couke et al., March 18, 2010 17. Fibrillin Assembly Requires Fibronectin, L. Sabatier et al., Molecular Biology of the Cell, Vol. 20, 846-858, February 1, 2009. 18. Dissecting the Fibrillin Microfibril: Structural Insights in the Organization and Function, SA Jensen et al., Structure Review 20, Cell Press, February 8, 2012 19. Type VII collagen gene expression by human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes in culture: the influence of the donor and cytokine responses, YK Chen et al., J Invest Dermatol.
    [0035] 1994 Feb; 102 (4205-9) 20. WO 2001/007006 Al, ASSOCIATION OF FIBRILLIN AND A CYANOPHYTA EXTRACT, PREPARATION METHOD AND USE AS MEDICINE, PIERRE FABRE DERMO COSMETICS 21. Repair of photoaged dermal matrix by topical application of a cosmetic 22. Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine: a novel agent for the repair of photo-skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science Volume 29 Issue 4 Pages 319-329 Journal 2007 23 A cosmetic 'anti-aging' product improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, randomized controlled trial British Journal of Dermatology Volume 161 Issue 2 Pages 419-426 Journal 2009 24. Structural changes in skin dermis induced by aging Fragrance Journal Volume 3 Issue 11 Pages 49-53 Journal; General Review2008 25. A new wrinkle on old skin: the role of elastic fibers in skin aging International Journal of Cosmetic Science Journal 2010 19. Epidermal growth factor and multiplication of culture Human epidermal keratinocytes, Nature 1977, 265, 421-423 20. Retinoid-Responsive Transcripts Changes in Epidermal Keratinocytes, Cellular Physiology 2009, 220, 427-439 21. Silybin from Silybum Marianum Seeds Inhibitors confluent-Induced keratinocytes differentiation as effectively as retinoic acid without inducing inflammatory cytokine, Journal of Clinical Biochemistry and Nutrition, 2009, 45, 178-184. 20
    权利要求:
    Claims (9)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic, dermatological or nutraceutical composition comprising, in a suitable excipient, an effective amount of a plant extract as an active ingredient, characterized in that said plant extract comprises from 0.0001 to 100% of sucrose-esters having a number of C 1 to C 22 carbons, said sucrose esters being biologically active on the skin, mucous membranes and superficial body growths.
    [0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the plant extract 10 comes from the family of Solanaceae.
    [0003]
    3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that it is a topical cosmetic composition with a physiologically acceptable medium. 15
    [0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a vegetable extract content ranging from 0.0001 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 25% by weight, and in particular from 0, 01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 20
    [0005]
    5. Process for preparing a plant extract comprising from 0.0001 to 100% of sucrose-esters having a carbon number of Cl to C22, said sucrose esters being biologically active on the skin, mucous membranes and superficial body growths, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - drying of the plant part, - grinding, - extraction with a suitable organic solvent, then - optionally desolventization, then - optionally purification with one or more appropriate methods. 30
    [0006]
    6. Vegetable extract obtainable by the process according to claims 5.
    [0007]
    7. Use of an effective amount of a plant extract according to claim 6, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, for preparing a dermatological composition for treating pathologies involving pathological dryness of the skin, mucous membranes or mucous membranes. dander and promote healing.
    [0008]
    8. Use of an effective amount of a plant extract according to claim 6, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, for preparing a topical cosmetic composition intended to improve the appearance of the skin, mucous membranes or superficial body growths. to prevent and / or fight against the dryness of the skin and mucous membranes, to prevent and / or to fight against the cutaneous signs of aging and / or photo-aging and to fight against the loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin. skin.
    [0009]
    9. Use of an effective amount of a plant extract according to claim 6, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, for preparing a nutricosmetic composition to be ingested for improving the appearance of the skin, mucous membranes or mucous membranes. dander, to prevent and / or fight against the dryness of the skin and mucous membranes, to prevent and / or fight against the cutaneous signs of aging and / or photo-aging.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    CN105899186A|2016-08-24|
    WO2015104484A1|2015-07-16|
    PE20160866A1|2016-09-24|
    FR3016289B1|2017-12-29|
    JP6777546B2|2020-10-28|
    JP2017502087A|2017-01-19|
    US20160331676A1|2016-11-17|
    EP3091960A1|2016-11-16|
    MX2016009004A|2017-01-05|
    US10555894B2|2020-02-11|
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    JP2001122731A|1999-10-26|2001-05-08|Ichimaru Pharcos Co Ltd|Cosmetic composition containing moisturizing plant extract|
    FR2896155A1|2006-01-18|2007-07-20|C F E B Sisley Sa|Cosmetic/dermatological composition, useful e.g. as anti-aging and/or anti-radicalizing agents to treat skin and hair, comprises a Physalis calyx extract|
    JP2011051920A|2009-09-01|2011-03-17|Sateisu Seiyaku:Kk|Bleaching agent|
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    CN102586377A|2011-12-30|2012-07-18|秦皇岛大惠生物技术有限公司|Concentrate containing carotenoid monomer and preparation method as well as application thereof|
    CN104027287A|2014-07-08|2014-09-10|广州千百度化妆品有限公司|Free radical scavenging cosmetic composition and preparation method thereof|FR3034664B1|2015-04-09|2018-09-14|ISP Investments LLC.|HYDRO-ALCOHOLIC EXTRACT OF SCHINUS MOLLE, COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING SAME AND THEIR COSMETIC USES|
    CN108261346B|2018-03-01|2020-12-29|上海科颜生物科技有限公司|Whitening composition and preparation method thereof|
    CN108309841A|2018-04-10|2018-07-24|广州赛莱拉干细胞科技股份有限公司|Skin care compositions based on China fir leaf caulerpa extract and its application|
    EP3895695A1|2020-04-15|2021-10-20|Universidad Autónoma de Madrid|Supercritical carbon dioxide-based methodology to formulate bioactive preparations|
    法律状态:
    2016-01-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-01-04| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-01-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-01-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-01-29| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    2022-01-31| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1400051A|FR3016289B1|2014-01-10|2014-01-10|PLANT EXTRACT COMPRISING SUCROSE-ESTERS AS AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ITS USE IN A COSMETIC, DERMATOLOGICAL OR NUTRACEUTICAL COMPOSITION|FR1400051A| FR3016289B1|2014-01-10|2014-01-10|PLANT EXTRACT COMPRISING SUCROSE-ESTERS AS AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ITS USE IN A COSMETIC, DERMATOLOGICAL OR NUTRACEUTICAL COMPOSITION|
    PE2016001110A| PE20160866A1|2014-01-10|2015-01-09|VEGETABLE EXTRACT WITH SACROSE ESTERS AS AN ACTIVE PRINCIPLE FOR USE IN COSMETIC, DERMATOLOGICAL OR NUTRICOSMETIC COMPOSITIONS|
    US15/110,215| US10555894B2|2014-01-10|2015-01-09|Plant extract comprising sucrose esters as an active agent for use in cosmetic, dermatological or nutricosmetic composition|
    PCT/FR2015/000011| WO2015104484A1|2014-01-10|2015-01-09|Plant extract comprising sucrose esters as an active agent for use in a cosmetic, dermatological or nutricosmetic composition|
    EP15705628.4A| EP3091960A1|2014-01-10|2015-01-09|Plant extract comprising sucrose esters as an active agent for use in a cosmetic, dermatological or nutricosmetic composition|
    CN201580004192.6A| CN105899186A|2014-01-10|2015-01-09|Plant extract comprising sucrose esters as an active agent for use in a cosmetic, dermatological or nutricosmetic composition|
    JP2016563262A| JP6777546B2|2014-01-10|2015-01-09|A botanical extract containing the sucrose ester used in a cosmetic composition, a dermatological composition, or a nutritional cosmetic composition as an active ingredient.|
    MX2016009004A| MX2016009004A|2014-01-10|2015-01-09|Plant extract comprising sucrose esters as an active agent for use in a cosmetic, dermatological or nutricosmetic composition.|
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